Richmond, B.C. Act III

Dinner reservations for the evening were at Grand Honour Restaurant, an establishment that is supposedly renowned for excellence in the preparation of the more unique Chinese delicacies and abalone in specific. Don't worry, none of the dishes that night crossed the RM level 5 threshold.

Another house made XO sauce. This one had the addition of Smithfield ham and seemed to me to be served more as an appetizer than as a condiment. Then again it's possible that the XO could have been used as a condiment but it just wouldn't have enhanced any of the dishes we ordered that evening.

These were some type of pickled greens that were dressed with a bit of sesame oil and sesame seeds. Sorry for lack of identification but I can tell you they were definitely an app and not a condiment and they were tasty.


The last time I could remember having shark's fin soup was around the age on nine. I couldn't remember how it had tasted then so this was an adventure in rediscovery. Served in a thickened superior stock, the shark's fin was delicious. However, I will say that the majority of the flavor came from the stock itself. To me, the shark's fin was much more of a textural element. Some might question why it's so sought after if there isn't much flavor and my best explanation is that in Chinese cuisine there is a great emphasis placed upon texture, balance of flavors and lore behind food.


Nearly all foods carry some significance and importance. I'm not sure the exact significance behind shark's fin but it is generally considered to be a dish served on special occasions such as banquets and weddings and is a symbol of wealth. Additionally I've heard it is considered to be an aphrodisiac. Whether or not that justifies the price tag as well as the controversial practice is tough to say.


The second course was the star of the show. A large abalone served in supreme stock with a hint of oyster sauce and accompanied by pea sprout leaves. The abalone had a texture like a firmer, meatier dried shitake mushroom. Flavor wise they were briny and delicious and somewhat similar to oysters although they really are something quite apart.


I'm usually not a big fan of sea cucumber but this one was done quite well. Sea cucumber can sometimes have an overwhelmingly strong sea flavor. Additionally the chewy/bouncy, resilient texture can be a bit off setting. This one managed to be not to much of either.


Last on the exotic foods list was fish maw braised in superior stock and served with baby choy sum and shredded Smithfield ham. The flavor of the fish maw wasn't very strong and to be honest I can't really remember it now. I think overall I prefer it in fish maw soup rather than braised as it was here.


Much less out of the ordinary but by no means less satisfying was the steamed rock cod. For me this dish is the epitome of a childhood comfort food. Steamed and topped with green onions, ginger and some shitake mushrooms that have been flashed with hot oil and then served with a seasoned soy sauce. A very easy dish to make at home that never fails to please. I could eat this every day and be satisfied.


I'm not sure of the exact style of this chicken as there are multiple preparations that yield similar results. Usually the chicken is boiled twice over the course of an hour, allowed to rest and dry and then seasoned. This one was served with dried ginger oil on the side and was quite tasty.


You can never go wrong with extra vegetables, especially if they were like these. Chinese mustard greens were simmered in superior stock and served with shredded Smithfield ham. It's like an Asian take on a southern classic. Pork and greens are always a winner in my book.


Dessert was a simple bowl of sweetened pumpkin soup. For me it didn't really stand out as something special but I think I generally feel that way about Chinese desserts. More often than not I would rather have another entree or appetizer in place of dessert.

Overall it was a great meal. My favorites of the evening were the abalone, the rock cod and the chicken. Maybe it's just me but I guess I'm not that crazy about the more wild side of Chinese cuisine. I would be much happier eating 10 orders of roast pork over rice than the one bowl of shark's fin soup at the same price. But if exotic is your thing then it's a good bet that Grand Honour Restaurant is your place.

Grand Honour Restaurant Ltd.
110-5701 Granville Street
Vancouver, BC V6M 4J7, Canada
604-263-3983

Richmond, B.C. Act II

Gong hay fat choy! Happy Chinese new year everyone! I hope it will be a healthy, happy and prosperous one for you all.

If you remember from my last post, I had finished eating a dim sum brunch and was off to the malls to burn off some calories before lunch. I didn't do a particularly good job of accomplishing that goal. After walking through an Asian supermarket (the quality and variety of ingredients available up there is astounding), a Chinese herbal medicine shop and a two looney store, I found myself in the middle of the malls food court. My God, it had been less than two hours! I really have no self control when it comes to food.


Dragon fruit (above) and rose apples (below). I've never tried either and don't recall having seen them in markets in the US. I will definitely be on the lookout next time. I believe I should be able to find the dragon fruit as it's actually grown in South America and is a type of cactus fruit. Don't know about the rose apples though.


Once I was there in the midst of all the food stalls and their wonderful aromas there was no way I could leave without getting a quick bite and I knew just the place. If there's one thing that I look forward to on each Canada trip, aside from the maple syrup, it's the xiao lung bao. Literally these delicacies translate to "little dragon buns". Man do I love me some dragon meat. For about 5 looneys you get 6 of these delicious soup dumplings at Shanghai Shanghai restaurant in Aberdeen mall.


Filled with pork and a super-tasty, rich, porky broth, these dumplings are steamed dynamite that I could go on eating all day, and I have. According to my parents, on one visit to a restaurant in Vancouver that was famous for their soup dumplings I managed to polish off 4+ steamers of 10 dragon buns. I was 7 at the time.


I washed the six dumplings above down with a glass of fresh blended strawberry mango juice. That's something I feel we here in the states are lacking as well. Aside from Jamba Juice, where most of the fruit is frozen, we don't have juice shops. I think someone needs to start opening a good chain of fresh squeezed and blended juice stores. I have a strong intuition that they would thrive in the Berkeley area and elsewhere as well.


Since we are on the topic I thought I would include some other picks for chowing down on soup dumplings. The ones above hail from Northern Dynasty, another restaurant in Richmond, B.C. These ones might be a slight bit better than the ones of Shanghai Shanghai but they also cost a wee bit extra. Honestly, it's a real close call. I haven't had the opportunity to eat them back to back since I'm usually too stuffed from one place's dumplings or the others. Perhaps if I can manage some restraint next time I can provide further analysis. As for now, if you want a sit down meal with a solid Northern Chinese menu go for Northern Dynasty. For a bite on the go try out Shanghai Shanghai.

Though I don't have pictures for them, the xiao lung bao at Top Shanhai restaurant were quite good as well. I prefer Northern Dynasty as a sit down restaurant to Top Shanghai but there's no denying that they both boast delicious bao.


Finally the buns above were from a popular spot in New York called Joe's Shanghai. Overall I was disappointed. After seeing this post I had been really excited to try them out on my brief trip to NYC before Europe last summer. While they were good, I thought they simply paled in comparison to the ones of Richmond. The wrappers weren't as thin and the broth not as rich. The consistency of the pork filling also differed, with Joe's being a bit coarser ground. Don't get me wrong, they were good. I just didn't think they were of the same standard as Shanghai Shanghai or Northern Dynasty. I guess I should also mention that from the looks of EDBM's post I don't think I dined at the same Joe's location. I'm not sure whether they are owned by the some proprietor or whether it's the Chinese version of Ray's pizza. I'll have to wait till the next time I'm in NYC to find out I suppose.

Again, happy Chinese new year to all and join me again soon for the final installment of the Richmond B.C. series!

Shanghai Shanghai
Unit 3010
Inside Aberdeen Centre
4151 Hazelbridge Way, Richmond, BC, Canada
(SW Corner of Hazelbridge Way & Cambie Rd.)
604-279-1239

Northern Dynasty Restaurant
1180-8391 Alexandra Road,
Richmond, B.C.
604-303-1192

Top Shanghai
120-8100 Ackroyd Road
Richmond, BC V6X 3K2, Canada
(604) 278-8798

Joe's Shanghai
9 Pell Street
New York, New York 10013
212-233-8888

PS - Anyone have any good recommendations for xiao lung bao in the bay area?

Richmond, B.C. Act I

Living in the state of Washington for half of my life meant that Canada was always just next door. Growing up, my family never missed an opportunity to take advantage of all the delicious Chinese food to be found up north, not to mention the favorable exchange rate. Today the food is just as good as always, maybe even better, although the same can't be said about the dollar to looney ratio. But it's this fact, along with my current residence being Berkeley instead of Seattle, that makes a trip to British Columbia all the more special and savory.

When my family and I used to go to BC we would go to the Chinatown in Vancouver. Now most of the hot-spots have moved one town south to Richmond where a younger and more affluent Chinese diaspora resides. The town boasts an uncanny number of restaurants/capita. Frankly I'm baffled as to how the population can support them all. But then again, eating is a huge part of Asian culture. In Chinese for example, a common greeting is to ask "Have you eaten yet?" rather than "How are you?" Most likely, whether you answer yes or no to the question, the next place you'll find yourself is gathered around a table.


The table I found myself sitting at was at Kirin Seafood Restaurant. It's been around for over 20 years now and has gathered a bunch of awards over time. What I love most is their dim sum. Unlike Chinese restaurants in the states that seem to be frozen in time, serving the same mediocre dishes without refinement or innovation, Kirin stays on the cutting edge. They rotate their menu monthly, featuring new ingredients, dishes and techniques. It makes for an exciting dining experience where each little steamer brings a new surprise and delight.


XO sauce is an increasingly popular condiment in Chinese restaurants. It's a blend of dried scallops, dried shrimps, chilies, garlic and shallots, all fried together to create a super tasty sauce.
While many restaurants buy their XO, Kirin makes theirs in house and it is much better than anything coming out of a jar.


Chicken feet served with red vinegar. If you have never tried them they are worth a shot. There's no need to be squeamish. They taste like chicken but the texture is like cartilage.


Super crispy, succulent pork paired with roasted duck.


This was my favorite of the meal. Called Gum Sah Doufu, the name translates literally to "Golden Sand Tofu". What the elusive dusting of golden sand was we couldn't tell. When we asked the waiter he said it was simply fried garlic. A very diplomatic answer that served to guard the secrets of the kitchen.


Chinese donut wrapped in a sheet of rice paper.


Tangerine peel flavored meat balls.


Steamed spareribs with tangerine sauce.


Scallop dumplings with peas, carrots and corn.


Jade dumplings with spinach and shitake mushroom.


Classic shrimp dumplings which I believe were enriched with a touch of pork fat.


Shrimp and pea sprout leaf dumplings. These were my second favorite of the meal.


Fried shrimp and Chinese chive spring rolls.


Gigantic shark fin soup dumpling served with bamboo pith. Very tasty.


The best egg custard tart I have ever had hands down. The crust was super flaky like filo dough and the custard was rich and eggy without being too sweet.


Mango coconut tapioca custard with a pastry crust. I'm not big on coconut but it would have been awesome if it were just mango.

This was definitely a solid start for the day. But in order to gear up for the next meal I needed some exercise. So I was off to peruse the shops in the many malls of Richmond. It was there that the next eating adventure ensued. To be continued in Act II.

PS - Where are your favorite dim sum restaurants?

Kirin Seafood Restaurant
200-7900 Westminster Highway
Richmond, BC, Canada
(604) 303-8833

O Chame

Over the years I have come full circle about my feelings on Berkeley. I must admit that I wasn't particularly pleased with the city during my first two years. However, in these past two years I've grown to truly appreciate Berkeley and all that it has to offer. My latest reason to be thankful for living in this eclectic and eccentric corner of the world was my recent visit to O Chame.

I had talked about going to this 4th street restaurant for over a year. I had read the excellent reviews and seen its place on Michael Bauer's Top 100 Bay Area Restaurants. Yet it took fate in the form of a class paper to finally get me there. Chef and owner David Vardy was kind enough to allow me an interview on himself and the history of O Chame. I found it incredibly insightful and intriguing. For instance, did you know that he uses a mixed form of Chinese and Japanese martial arts for all the knife work in his kitchen? Alright, I may extrapolating a bit there but the man is an accomplished martial artist, having trained for extensive periods in both Taiwan and Japan. How cool is that?

After hearing his story I simply had to try his food. So the next Friday my girlfriend and I set out on our quest. And what a journey it was.


The grilled eel was firm and fatty, contrasted well by the slightly bitter endive which, if I remember correctly, was splashed with a "citrusy" vinaigrette.


Luxurious slices of slightly seared tuna were accented with a creamy-spicy horseradish sauce and laid upon a bed of braised leeks.


My weakness for noodles appears once again and what a wonderful weakness it is. While I had planned to try the roasted pork tenderloin noodles which I had read so much about, I was torn by the roasted oysters with soba. When our server informed me that the oysters were on the menu for a limited time, the deal was sealed. Briny and delicious, the oysters paired with the fish broth evoked both comfort and an essence of the sea.


My girlfriend chose the grilled skirt steak with spinach, portobella mushroom and edammame for her entree. Having the portobella and the skirt steak together was like enjoying steak two different ways or twice altogether. Cooked to medium rare and served along with the spinach, edammame and broth, the steak managed to be substantial but not to the point where one feels a glutton after. Indeed it was a dish that I could eat everyday and not feel guilty about it. Come to think about it however, I would probably say the same for all of the dishes we had. I have a serious and urgent need to learn how to cook Japanese food.


We finished our evening of excess with a trio of desserts. On the left are poached bosc pears with huckleberries. Yes yes, now you all know where the inspiration for my last post came from. Although the poaching liquid here was much lighter than my red wine and I really enjoyed the addition of the huckleberries. On the right are two divine scoops of caramel balsamic gelato. I couldn't be sure at the time and but I have a sneaking suspicion that there's cream cheese in the gelato. Whatever it was, I loved it. By the time I tasted the pears and the gelato my eyes had glazed over and I had a permanent silly grin affixed on my face. I was in an awesome place, fully enjoying my food high. The third dish on the top was a sherry custard. It was light and fragile but it's flavor was bold, exuding sherry aroma.

We didn't speak much on our drive home. We mostly just sat there staring cockeyed and grinning idiotically with delight. I can remember my girlfriend saying one thing, "That was the best meal I've had in a long time." All I could do was nod in agreement.

O Chame
1830 Fourth St. (at Hearst)
Berkeley, CA
510-841-8783

Poached Pears

When it comes to desserts I'm a big fan of fruit. Not that I am not otherwise a fan of fruit, on the contrary, friends often find me raving for days about my latest exotic fruit discovery from Berkeley Bowl Market (the latest being a pomelo). It's just that I find fruit focused desserts to be much more satisfying than say pastries or cakes.

On one of my last evenings in Washington with the family I made this simple and satisfying dessert. The spiced wine and warm pears go great with vanilla ice cream. There's a nice hot/cold temperature contrast in the dessert but it's sure to leave you feeling cozy after your finished.


Poached Pears with Spiced Wine

5-6 Bosc pears
Bottle of inexpensive red wine
3 Tbs sugar, or more to taste
1 cinnamon stick, about 2"
6 cloves
1 tsp black peppercorns

Method
Peel and core the pears. In a large sauce pan, bring the wine along with the spices and sugar to boil (you can place the spices in cheese cloth if you wish or simply strain after cooking). As soon as it begins to boil, add the pears and reduce the heat to a simmer. Simmer for 45 minutes or until the pears are tender but not mushy. Remove the pears and continue to reduce the wine until it reaches a runny syrup consistency. Let the pears and wine cool and serve warm with vanilla ice cream.

Monsoon

I’ve been spending my winter vacation at home in Washington state visiting family. While the break has been good, the same can’t be said for the weather. It’s likely I’ve been spoiled by the Bay Area climate (although things aren’t that pretty in Northern California right now either) but I have a tough time dealing with the cold, the wind and the rain up here. The cold rain makes one want to stay inside while the wind can leave one in the dark as it did a few nights ago when it caused a power outage. With conditions like these I sometimes wish we had a different climate in the Pacific Northwest. After all, south and Southeast Asia gets similar wind and rain storms except theirs are usually warm. Couldn’t we trade for that?

It seems my wish has been granted. While it’s no storm, Monsoon in Seattle is providing a much safer and tastier method of staying out of the cold. Located in Capitol Hill, a Seattle neighborhood that reminds me a lot of Berkeley, Monsoon specializes in “tradition Vietnamese cuisine with Pacific Northwest innovation.” Their menu, a creation of owners Eric and Sophie Banh, blends Vietnamese, Chinese and French flavors with wonderful result. The menu changes monthly and is prepared with locally sourced and organic ingredients whenever possible. With this kind of mindset, I can’t help think that Monsoon would thrive in a nice spot like the Gourmet Ghetto in Berkeley but perhaps I’m asking for too much. I don’t want to steal Monsoon away from Seattle mind you, I could settle for a second location. So how about it Eric, Sophie, ever been to the Bay Area?



My first visit to Monsoon had been with my older brother. He promised me a bowl of pho unlike any that I had tried before. When I met him at the restaurant however, I must admit that I had my reservations. Frankly, the place was too nice. Restaurants that serve good pho can usually be found in the dodgier parts of town and generally boast an Asian greasy spoon allure (both literally and figuratively). This was neither. Furthermore, a quick glance around the dining room made it obvious that I was the only Asian, or, well, half-Asian customer in the house. The primarily Caucasian clientele made me fear the worst: General Tso’s Chicken, Sweet and Sour Pork, Combination Chow Mein and Fortune Cookies or perhaps more accurately in this case, packaged MSG laden pho. My worries were immediately assuaged however when the food arrived.


We began the meal with an order of the braised berkshire pork belly. The slightly crispy, fried exterior gave way to the juicy, succulent interior, accentuated by the thin layers of fat between the meat. The richness of the pork was cut well by the subtle kick of the accompanying spicy mustard. This reminded me of the Chinese red-braised pork I ate as a kid and I would have loved to seen this pork belly paired with a similar sweet, dark sauce.


Next came a few of their dim sum delicacies. I found both the bbq pork bun and the steamed lotus leaf rice to be executed right on point. They were excellent representations of classic Chinese delights.




Finally came the piece de resistance. From the moment the bowl arrived at the table I knew it was unique. The wafts of steam drifted into my nose, bringing with them the highly aromatic smells of the soup. The broth was much darker than most restaurants’ due to the ox tails used in the making. The meat was also distinct. Unlike the regular paper-thin slices often resembling sandwich meat, this steak was cut thicker from high quality wagyu beef. I took my first sip of the broth and was amazed. It managed to be rich and hearty yet subtle and nuanced at the same time. It was like a heavy weight boxer: he’s light on his feet but packs a mean punch. I had hoped I might be able to go nine rounds but I was stuffed full by the relatively small bowl after the first.


My brother was right. This was one of the best bowls of pho I had ever had. Yet to be fair, Monsoon is simply in a different weight class. And rightfully so. Their attention to detail and the quality of ingredients sets them leagues apart from most Vietnamese restaurants. Their ability to meld varying cuisines harmoniously awards them further distinction. If this were not enough, Monsoon also boasts a wide selection of fine wines. Though I haven’t had the opportunity to sample them yet, I fully intend to soon. I guess I know where I’ll be the next time my power goes out. Actually, probably sooner than that.

Monsoon
615 19th Avenue E
Seattle, Washington 98112
206.325.2111

PS - Drive slow on 19th as it's nestled location is easy to miss.

Shan Dong

Listen, we need to talk. There’s something that I need to tell you. I think its better that you find out now rather than later and I want to be the one to tell you…. I’m a noodle whore.

The cat’s out of the bag. Be it Hong Kong style wonton noodle soup, Taiwanese spicy beef noodle soup, or my coveted Vietnamese pho, I love them all. Noodles are dear to my heart and hold a special place in my stomach. Most aptly described as the cavern, it is reserved for only the tastiest of foods and can store an un-Godly amount of sustenance, something my waiter was quick to notice on my first trip to Shan Dong. After watching four of us polish off enough food for 10, he turned ghostly white when I asked for the menu a second time and began insisting that the kitchen was cached. Having given them a few weeks to restock, it was high time for another visit.


I came with four accomplices, Laura, Gabe, Chester, Ariane and the burden of ordering fell upon myself. I’m not sure how I obtained such responsibility but it may have been my drunken Cantonese performance on a previous noodle excursion in San Francisco. Alcohol does wonders for second languages and balance alike. Anyway, the same waiter from our first trip came around to take the order. I decided to practice moderation and only asked ordered seven dishes to begin with for our group of five. After jotting down the order, he asked if anyone else in the group would like anything. I couldn’t decide whether to give it to him for his audacity or applaud him for his consideration – he was obviously unaware that my friends were there simply to watch me eat.


I decided to start the meal off with a cold cut beef appetizer. It’s a dish that I don’t often have but enjoy quite a bit. This version was pretty good but I felt that it lacked a bit of flavor and umph that would have made it really good.


Laura requested pea sprout leaves or dow mew, of which I am a huge fan. They are probably my favorite vegetable. Sautéed with garlic, I could eat them every day of the week. While I usually prefer the larger, leafier kind, the little ones here were delicious.


Waiting for our table I spied a family enjoying this dish. Fish fillets stir-fried in a garlicky white wine sauce with vegetables and wood ear mushrooms. Mild enough to enjoy the fish while still bringing plenty of flavor to the table.


Nearly every table had an order of these string beans and for good reason. We had ours dry-fried with a bit of shredded pork. After one bite I realized how seldom I order these beans and how great a shame that is. That will have to change.


What we’d all been waiting for, the infamous hand cut noodles! We ordered this batch combination style and it came with shrimp, chicken, beef and choy sum. As they came from the kitchen Chester commented that “Noodles are all about mouth feel.” I couldn’t have said it better. With a smooth outside, healthy thickness and chewy al-dente bite, these noodles are right up my alley. We enjoyed them so much we ordered another batch later on.


These were the house special cold noodles. I was a bit disappointed at first to find the more common chow mein like noodles being used. I had expected the hand cut noodles. However the dish proved to be quite good. Slightly sweet and salty with a hint of mild vinegar, these noodles were gone in no time.


Mid-meal we placed an order for Dan Dan Mein at Ariane’s request. Anticipating spicy, garlicky noodles with sesame undertones we were underwhelmed with this dish. There seemed to be a lot of sesame paste and not much else. To be fair I’m not sure that Dan Dan Mein was on their menu. After all, it is a dish hailing from Sichuan and we were in a restaurant claiming the Shandong province. This last dish was only a slight hitch in a meal that had otherwise been right on the money.

Shan Dong dishes up incredible northern style noodles and dumplings and is one of my Oakland Chinatown hole-in-the-wall favorites. Aside from the food, there’s something to be said about the service as well. It’s not often that you find a waiter who’s quick, attentive and has a sense of humor and control of the English language enough to make you laugh and want to tip extra. Nearly all of the items on the menu that I have tried have been well above average but it’s the delicious noodles and dumplings that keep me coming back for more. Be sure to order extra when you go, you wont be disappointed.

PS - Please pardon the half eaten photographs. I usually try to restrain myself long enough to take a few quick snapshots but we were really hungry and the food was really good...